EASTERN ARBORVITAE, Thuja occidentialis Rooted Large Size Bareroot Live Plant 12"+ , Organic, non-Gmo

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  • Regular price $14.95

Eastern Arborvitae (White Cedar) Thuja occidentialis Strong Rooted Large Size Plant

The plant may trim short during the shipping due to being very tall for the full growing season and better survive The bare root may trim the leave to better survive during shipping, please put it in a pot or ground immediately. Water throughout and avoid direct sunlight covering with paper or cloth in the first month. if the plant is very stressed during the shipping, remove the plastic wrap and put it in water overnight

Up to 20 feet tall and 6-8 feet wide at maturity. Very dark green color year-round. Medium growth rate and very hardy. Used for screening and foundation planting. When young it grows bushy but when it gets to 3-4 feet it grows more pyramidal. They prefer full sun to partial shade and can grow in a variety of soil conditions.

Eastern arborvitae is a needled evergreen that usually has a pyramidal form and grows 20 to 30 feet tall. Its branches are arranged in horizontal sprays (unlike those of Thuja orientalis), which has vertical sprays). It's used widely as a specimen plant, in groupings, as screens, and as a corner plant in foundation plantings. In winter the normally green needles turn yellowish-brownish-green. Give this shrub or tree a moist, deep, well-drained site in full sun. Once established, it tolerates some heat and drought.

Count: 1 Name: Eastern Arborvitae Botanicl Name: Thuja occidentialis Tree: 3 + years plant with a strong root, bareroot Disease resistant Self-pollinating. 100% Open Pollinated 100% Heirloom 100% Non-Hybrid 100% Non-GMO

Grow Zone: 4 to 9 Growth Speed: Medium Light Requirements: Full Sun To Partial Shade Average Full Grown Height: 50’ to 75’ Average Full Grown Width: 50’ to 75’ Deciduous (loses Leaves) Or Evergreen (Holds Foilage All Year): Deciduous

Yields a ripened nut crop in early to mid-autumn. The fruit consists of three layers: a green, fleshy husk; a black inner shell that is hard, thick and corrugated; and the kernel, which is oily and sweet. Begins to bear nuts in 12–15 years. Is prized in the woodworking world for its handsome grain. Features pinnately compound, alternate leaves that are 12–24" in length and consist of 15–23 dark green leaflets that are 2–5" long. The leaflets are finely toothed. Is self-fertile but requires wind for pollination. Plant more than one tree to ensure a better crop. Grows in a rounded shape. Develops a deep taproot, making it difficult to transplant. Can be toxic to certain trees and plants--such as serviceberries, chestnuts, pines, arborvitae, apples, cherries, tomatoes, potatoes, peas, peppers, cabbages, alfalfa, blueberries, blackberries, azaleas, rhododendron, lilacs, hydrangeas, privets and plants in the heath family--if planted too close.

Very well known for the delicious black walnuts. Some think of these trees as gold when they know their true value of them. Black walnuts are not exactly common and these trees can provide loads of black walnuts. Then in a few decades, they become nice size harvestable logs that can be worth big money. Win-win situation! These can also make nice shade trees.

From October to March, We ship these plants in their dormant state. This means they will have no leaves. The stem will be strewn with buds for this coming spring's growth. If you live in a southern state, these will push new growth upon planting them as dormancy is dependent on hours of daylight and temperature. We are located in IL State and temperatures can differ drastically around the country.

Handling and Planting "Bare-Root" Plants

Roots, rhizomes, and other parts should feel heavy. If they feel light and dried out then the plant probably will not grow. The plant should sprout leaves in the same year it is planted. If you plant a bare root plant in the spring then it should have leaves by the summer. A plant that sits all season long won't magically sprout next year.

Never let the roots dry out, be especially careful with this before you put the plants in the soil. Plant the bare-root plants before you see new growth starting. Trim off any dead or damaged roots and branches. Do not cut healthy roots shorter, even if it would make planting easier. Place the root portion of the plant in water and let it soak before you plant - several hours for woody plants; 10-20 minutes for perennials, asparagus, strawberries, etc. This good soaking will help the plant get a better start. Dig a hole that is wide enough and deep enough to put the plant in without bending or crowding the roots. Place the plant in the hole at the same level it was grown by the nursery. You can find this level where the roots start and the top shoots begin (the crown). Do not plant the plant deeper than this line. Spread the roots out evenly. Fill the hole with good soil while you are supporting the plant and keeping the roots spread (this works really well if you have three hands of your own or if you have someone to help you). Gently work the soil in and around the roots; do not pack the soil. Water the plant thoroughly, making sure that the soil around the roots is moist. Wait at least four weeks before you fertilize the plant! Young roots are easily damaged by too much fertilizer. Mulch the plants with quality bark, straw, or compost. Water the new plants until they get established - never let them dry out. Bare root trees will probably need to be staked for one year. When you put the stakes in, make sure the stakes are in the undisturbed area around the plant (not in the planting hole or the tree may fall over).

The Black Walnut tree (Juglans nigra) or “American Walnut” is a moderately growing, cold tolerant nut producing tree that is not only sought for it’s bountiful walnut harvest but also the dark, beautiful brown wood. They are commonly planted in USDA growing zones 4-9 which means they can not only take the cold but a good amount of heat as well. The Black Walnut tree will mature to a gargantuan height of 70-150 feet tall and as much as 30-40 feet wide so make sure there are no obstructions for the tree to grow such as power lines. This full sun loving, moderate grower produces an abundant harvest in the fall around September to October, simply shake the branches and be ready for a showering of delicious walnuts!

Seasonal Information: Generally it is best to plant your tree in the early fall, at least six weeks before the first frost in order to give the roots enough time to become established before winter sets in, or in the early spring six weeks after the final frost. However, you can plant your tree at any time of the year as long as your ground isn’t frozen. If you plant during the summer simply make sure that your trees get enough water to balance the heat.

Location: When deciding where to plant your walnut trees remember that they will perform best in full sunlight. Although, they can tolerate partial shade as long as they have at least six hours of direct sunlight a day. Avoid planting these nutty trees in an area of your yard that’s prone to flooding, or that collects standing water. Also, account for your tree’s massive size. Give it enough space from structures so it can reach its mature width, and don’t plant them under power lines.

Planting directions: 1) Once you have picked the perfect planting location dig a hole that’s just as deep as the root ball on your tree and three times as wide. 2) Take a pitch fork or shovel and scrape it along the sides of the hole to loosen the soil. Check for any debris like rocks, grass, or dirt clumps and remove them from the hole. 3) Next place your tree in the hole and make sure that it’s level with the surrounding ground and standing straight upwards at a 90 degree angle. 4) Slowly back fill the hole and gently tamp the soil down. 5) Once you’ve completed the planting process give your tree a long drink of water and mulch the area to conserve soil moisture.

Watering: We often find that plants are harmed more by over watering than under watering. Keep this in mind when it comes to watering your walnut tree. Allow the soil to dry out two inches below the surface before watering your trees. When it’s time to give your trees more water hold a hose to their bases and count to 30 seconds in order to give them a slow, deep watering.

Fertilization: In order to give your walnut trees a boost give them some well balanced fertilizer like formula 10-10-10 twice a year. Once in the early spring and again in the early fall. If your soil is lacking in nutrients you can fertilize up to once a month during the growing season. Always remember to wait until your tree has experienced one year of growth before fertilizing.

Weed Control: Prevent weeds from growing under the canopy by spreading 3 to 4 inch thick layer of mulch around the base. The mulch won’t allow weeds to grow, and it will also help your soil retain moisture. If you spot some weeds that need removing you can remove them by taking a firm grasp on them and pulling them upwards out of the ground in a twisting motion.

Pollination: Most Walnut varieties are self-fertile. They have both male and female flowers on a single tree. The female flowers open and wait for pollen to be spread from the male flowers, relying on natural pollinators like the wind and bees to make sure the pollen is spread from point A to point B. This being said pollination often has better chances if you have two or more trees for pollen to spread from.

Pruning: During the early spring is the best time of year to prune your walnut trees. You will want to prune any broken, damaged, or diseased branches. Also, remove any crisscrossing or rubbing branches. Make sure that your tree has sunlight and air flow through the canopy, this will allow the air and sunlight to knock out molds and fungi.

Be sure to look at your tree and plan where to make your cuts. Just like with a haircut, you can always remove more hair later, but if you cut too much it may take a while to grow back. Use a sharp and sterile pair of hand pruners or loppers and make your cuts at 45 degree angles facing upwards in order to promote new growth.



If you have ANY questions at all - Please send us a message and we will be happy to help.

The pictures in this listing are not exact images of what your tree will look like, they depict images of full-grown trees, your tree will be in the size pot that is listed and the height of the tree at shipping can vary based on the specific species, please look above in the details to see approx tree/plant height. We do not focus much on height as some do, instead, we are more focused as very strong root systems which is the most important part of your tree/plant.

Please keep in mind we are a small family licensed nursery. Our plants are grown outside 365 days a year, we do not use tons of harsh chemicals and our plants are not grown inside like some commercial nurseries. We believe that our plants being outside all year through all weather makes for a much stronger plant long-term! Plants are alive, they are not perfect. Sometimes there might be some holes in the leaves from a hungry caterpillar or a brown leaf from some damage in the mail. You can cut off or remove these leaves if any of it is severe if we have not already done so. We do not mail out any sick trees or trees with insects as that is not legal nor is it the way to do business. Please know there is no perfect tree out there. We do not use big chemicals to protect them from any naturally occurring nature.

We are happy you decided to stop by and check out what we have to offer! We are a small family farm on 4 acres, we are a state inspected nursery here in the great state of Missouri! You can be sure any plants/trees you get from us will be healthy and ready for you to plant.

We ask when you order from us that you do not mix our tree/plants in the same order as our other items such as our laser engraved signs. Please order these separately as they will have to be shipped separately.

Before you order, please make sure that you have a basic understanding of trees/plants and that you will be able to give them the care they need. Many trees are very easy to care for and only will require you to carefully plant and give the tree a good home and give the tree a big drink of water every week in warmer weather. Please also make sure that whatever plant/tree you are ordering from us or any other nursery - that this tree is not blacklisted to come into your state. We only ship to the USA only, some plants are only allowed to enter certain states. If you order one to your state and it is not allowed there, and the shipment gets confiscated, that will be your responsibility so please only order plants that are allowed in your state.

REFUND POLICY: We cannot guarantee for any specific amount of time that your plant will live due to these being live plants that rely on your help to thrive. We can guarantee a live plant upon arrival. You can do a scratch test to make sure the tree is indeed alive if you have any doubts. If your plant is for sure dead, but you don’t think the shipping was the cause like a smashed box or super long transit times, we will need you to message us within 24 hours with images of the entire plant, and an up-close image of the tree showing brown under the outer layer of bark. Both pictures need to be very clear, so they can easily be seen. If we can clearly see it was dead on arrival, we will give you a replacement tree at no cost. IF YOU HAVE ANY PROBLEM with your plant upon getting it in the mail, please let us know ASAP, once it has arrived and is in good shape, it will be your full responsibility to take care of your new live plant. If you did file a mail claim, you will need to keep the box and damaged plant at least until the claim has been closed.

WHAT IS A SCRATCH TEST? A scratch test is a simple method that shows you if a plant or tree is dead or alive. You can take your fingernail, or other sharp (clean) item and scratch a tiny area of bark off the outside of your tree, two scratches may be needed to make 100% sure. If the color in the tree under the bark is green, then your plant is alive and well, even if it doesn’t have leaves. If the color is brown, the tree is most likely dead, at least where you scratched it. Sometimes after a rough winter or a lot of stress, some of the branches that are small, and furthest from the roots of the plant can become damaged and die back a little bit. As long as at least the bottom 25% of the tree is green, you have a live tree! Please continue to try and give it care and time.

Please make sure to care for the plant/tree you get from us as soon as it arrives, please get it out of the package and place it in a shady area and give it a fresh drink of water. After a plant or tree has been in the mail for a few days, it's usually not a good idea to put it right out in the blistering sun because it will be a shock to the tree or plant, it is best to put that plant in the shade to help acclimate it back to sunlight.

We are located in the north, central Missouri so if plants here are currently dormant, that means when you get the plant it will be dormant if it's during our growing season then expect a tree in full leaf. If you are in doubt, you can perform the “scratch test” to tell if the plant is alive/asleep or if it’s dead.

Each tree and plant will have its own different specific needs, but something that will cover most all plants and trees is you should dig a hole twice as wide and twice as deep as the root system as the tree and make sure to break up the dirt very well. This will allow the tree to easily grow new roots to establish itself much quicker. There is a simple saying when it comes to how deep the tree should be planted into the ground --- Plant it low - it won't grow, plant it high - it won't die. That statement is almost always true. The way you should do this is to find the highest root on the root ball near the trunk portion of your tree. That very top root should BARELY be under the soil. When you plant a tree too deep not only can this cause the bottom of the tree to rot, but believe it or not your tree can drown because the roots need to be able to take in oxygen and if the tree is planted too low and sits in water, the roots cant breathes and thus your tree will die. Also many ask about the growth speed of a tree, there is another general rule for this (SLEEP, CREEP, LEAP) The first year a tree is planted it will mostly sleep above ground as its works to establish roots, the second year the tree will start to slowly put on more and more growth, the third year the tree will put on the most growth as it should not be fully established and ready to grow, grow, grow!