Allium Gardening 101 for beginners
If you want to look like you’ve taken your garden to the next level of design, ornamental alliums are the answer. Planting a few bulbs in the fall will create a mini-sculpture garden in the spring that will not only last while the flowers are fresh, but continue into summer as the flowers dry in place. The single globes float above the surrounding garden and are made up of tiny, individual flowers on thin, hollow stems.
They’re easy, very hardy, and with basal (ground level) foliage that is rapidly covered by other growing perennials, you won’t face the “what to do with yellowing leaves” issue that accompanies most other bulb plantings.
You can find ornamental allium in many different shades of purple, pink, red, blue and white, and in sizes that range from “wow!” to “ahh…how sweet!” Used to accent developing foliage of later bloomers, or provide the finishing architectural touch to a bed of spring favorites, allium will give your garden the professional touch you’re striving for.
ONIONS, shallots and garlic are members of the allium family that belong in the vegetable garden. But there are many ornamental alliums that deserve a hearty welcome in your perennial gardens.
Alliums are plants of exquisite beauty in both flower and leaf, with tough constitutions. These easy-to-grow bulbs come in a broad palette of colors, heights, bloom times and flower forms. They make excellent cut flowers for fresh or dried bouquets. Even crowded gardens can accommodate a few alliums because they don't take up much space. What's more, alliums are relatively resistant to deer, voles, chipmunks, and rabbits
Ordinary Onions They're Not
There are more than 700 different types of alliums in the world. It wasn't until the late 1800s that this vast group of plants started to intrigue plant lovers. Russian botanists began collecting some of the spectacular alliums from Central Asia and introducing them to avid horticulturists through the Imperial Botanical Garden in St. Petersburg. Of course, it didn't take long for the consummate plant hunters, the British, to get wind of this "new" family of garden-worthy plants. Their expeditions yielded many more interesting alliums varieties.
Hardy, Easy-Care, Deer- and Rodent-Resistant
Ornamental alliums are hardy to zone 4 and they have very undemanding cultural requirements. They will grow in most any soil, as long as it is well-drained. Alliums adore sunlight and will perform best when they can bask in it all day long. Since most of them multiply naturally, they can be left untouched in the same area for years.
Alliums are drought-tolerant plants that actually prefer to be grown on the dry side. There are no serious diseases or insect pests that bother them. And you won't ever have to worry about rodents or deer, since they seem to have no appreciation for the taste of onions — ornamental or otherwise.
Just remember, there's only one time of year you can plant alliums: in the fall. Daffodils, tulips and crocuses are easy to find at most garden centers, but alliums are not as readily available. To make sure you have the bulbs in hand when it's time to plant, the best thing to do is order them by mail. That way, they'll show up at your door at proper planting time, and there's no chance you'll have to live another year without these beautiful, long-lasting, bee-friendly flowers in your garden. Some ornamental alliums grow more like chives and what you plant is a clump of roots rather than bulbs. This type of allium is usually sold as a potted plant, and may be more available in spring than fall.
Favorite Alliums
There are dozens of varieties in cultivation; here are some of the best.
Purple Sensation: the 2″ to 4″ diameter purple globes bloom in early June, right after the late tulips. Purple Sensation's sturdy stems rise 24″ to 30″ high, so the flowers appear to float above the foliage of newly emerging perennials./p>
Globemaster and Gladiator: The tallest and most architectural alliums have huge, globe-shaped flowerheads on 3- to 4-foot stems. Bloom time is early to mid-June. A group of deep-purple Globemaster or Gladiator alliums is a real eye-catcher, especially when planted with white or pink peonies, delphiniums or tall bearded iris. The white-flowering Mount Everest is a bit shorter and looks sharp in front of shrubs with deep-green or burgundy foliage or rising out of a groundcover of periwinkle (Vinca minor).
Corkscrew allium: Drought-tolerant corkscrew allium (Allium senescens ssp. montanum var. glaucum) makes a good edging plant in the dry soil at the top of my stone retaining wall. Its blue-green leaves twist like loose corkscrews. Bloom time is late summer.
Ozawa allium (Allium thunbergii 'Ozawa'): A tidy, clump-forming plant that grows 18″ to 20″ high. Among the last of the perennials to bloom, its flowers often don't open until late September or October. Bees love it. Another late-bloomer that flowers in autumn. Its pink flowers pair well with coreopsis, gaillardia, solidago and other fall flowers.
Schubert allium (Allium schubertii): Quite dramatic, though only 8″ tall . Its foot-wide umbels look like an exploding pink fireworks display. Sure to elicit comments from garden visitors. Seed heads add interest for a month or more after blooms fade.
Drumstick allium (Allium sphaerocephalon): Blooms in early July, a couple weeks after Purple Sensation. Not as erect and orderly as Purple Sensation, but in the right place (where casual is OK), the two-toned, burgundy-green heads are fantastic. Great with ornamental grasses.
Yellow allium (Allium flavum): A midsummer-blooming favorite that is well-suited to rock gardens. Over a 10-day period, the cluster of florets slowly emerges and becomes an exuberant display of color. Related species available in yellow, pink and white, 12″ to 24″ high.
When & Where to Plant Allium
Don’t make the mistake of digging a hole into hard, unforgiving soil, plopping in the bulb and then covering with rich, amended soil. Bulb roots go down – they need at least two inches of good soil beneath them.
Light: Allium thrive in full sun, but can tolerate part-shade conditions.
Soil: A well-drained soil is the most important condition for allium as bulbs may rot if left in wet soil. The average soil of most garden beds kept moist but not wet is generally fine.
Spacing: Space depending on the effect you wish to create – for single intensive plantings, space approximately 8-12” apart. For accents with larger varieties, space up to 2’ apart. While some species spread vigorously through seeds or bulbils, many varieties do not spread at all.
Planting: Plant bulbs in fall for a spring bloom. Plant dormant allium bulbs in the fall according to your growing zone. Plant them at a depth of 2-3 times their diameter (4-6”) in a well-drained sunny or partly-shaded site.
Allium is remarkably resilient in a dormant state and can wait to be planted, but needs to be in the ground a few weeks before the ground freezes in order to put down roots. If holding for any length of time, keep cool and dry in a dark location.
How to Grow Allium Throughout the Season
Growth Habit: Think: garden lollipop. In early spring, 2-3 flat, strappy leaves will emerge from the soil and remain close to the ground. By late spring, a single hollow flower stalk (scape) will emerge, with a papery tip. The spherical cluster of flowers will emerge when the scape is fully erect, though the foliage may already have started to yellow and die back.
Staking: Allium are remarkably strong for their height, but if you live in an area with high winds, it is wise to stake individual flowers.
Watering: Evenly-moist soil is preferred during the growing season. During the dormant season, bulbs can rot if too much moisture is in the soil.
Fertilizing: A small handful of bone meal placed in the soil at planting time is a good idea for root development. After a season in your garden, mulch with compost or well-rotted manure each year for added trace nutrients and improved soil.
Mulching: Allium doesn’t require mulching, but mulching for moisture retention, nutrients and aesthetics is perfectly okay.
Trimming & Pruning: You can remove the flower clusters either when fresh or dry, but it is crucial to leave the foliage intact, allowing it to yellow and die back naturally. Many gardeners leave the flower heads in place through the autumn as they have an almost architectural appearance.
If you’ve already tidied up the foliage after die back and cut off the flower scapes, there is no need to do anything more than wait for spring!
Dividing & Transplanting: Allium do not need to be dug and divided.
Pests & Disease: Insect pests are few and far between when it comes to the genus allium. Moles can dig tunnels under the roots, creating air gaps that will dry out and damage the bulb. Mice, voles and gophers will eat allium if there aren’t tulips and crocus to keep them busy.
Additional Concerns: Some species seed prolifically or create tiny bulbils in the flower head that become tiny plants. It is a good idea to check into the specific variety you are buying to make sure that this isn’t an issue.
Outdoor Beds
- Find a location where the soil drains well. If there are still water puddles 5-6 hours after a hard rain, scout out another site. Or amend the soil with the addition of organic material to raise the level 2-3" to improve the drainage. Peat moss, compost, ground bark or decomposed manure all work well and are widely available. While alliums aren't fussy about soil, they will not survive in soggy soil or standing water.
- Site your alliums where they will receive full sun. Alliums will grow in light shade but tend to develop stronger stems in brighter light.
- Dig holes and plant the bulbs 3" deep and 6"-8" apart. Position the bulbs with the pointy end facing up.
- After planting, water well to settle the soil around the bulbs. Roots will form in the fall. A few sprouts may also develop in autumn if you live in a warm region. More substantial top growth and flower stems will form in the spring.
- When in bloom, feel free to cut allium flowers for striking bouquets or for drying.
- After blooming has finished for the season leave the foliage in place; don't cut it off. The leaves will gather sunlight, create food through photosynthesis and strengthen the bulb for the future. Water as needed during active growth periods, about 1" of moisture per week is a good estimate.
- By mid summer the leaves will yellow and die back as the plant slips into dormancy. Foliage many be removed at this point. Your alliums will rest for a few months before beginning the next growing cycle.
Pots, Barrels, Tubs & Urns
- Fill your containers with good quality, well-drained soil. Almost any commercially available potting medium will work fine. Make sure there are adequate drainage holes; allium bulbs must never sit in waterlogged soil or they will rot. Keep in mind the mature size of the varieties you have chosen and plan your container sizes accordingly.
- Site your containers where they will receive full sun.
- Plant your alliums 3" deep and 6" apart for the most brilliant display. Position bulbs with the pointy ends up.
- After planting, water your containers well, gently soaking the soil so it settles around the bulbs. Roots will form in the fall. A few sprouts may also develop in autumn if you live in a warm region. Taller top growth and flower stems will form in the spring.
- Enjoy your flowering containers, snipping a few flowers if you like. This won't hurt your plants.
- After blooming has finished for the season leave the foliage in place; don't cut it off. The leaves will gather sunlight, create food through photosynthesis and strengthen the bulb for the future. Water as needed during active growth periods, about 1" per week.
- By mid summer the leaves will yellow and die back as the plant slips into dormancy. Foliage many be removed at this point. Your alliums will rest for a few months before beginning the next growing cycle.
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