Native to many parts of the United States, they have offered shade, protection, beautiful flowers, and tasty berries to their keepers and the local wildlife for generations. In short, they require very little care and give back so much!
Whether you choose to grow them as a hedge, a place for butterflies to visit, or for food and medicinal recipes, you won’t be disappointed by the benefits they offer.
And this plant is hearty enough for even first-time growers to master.
If you live in a growing zone that is pleasing to this shrub, I highly recommend giving elderberries a chance.
‘Adams’ is a cultivar of native Sambucus canadensis. It is one of the most common elderberries grown in North America and is similar to those found growing wild.
The signature white flowers, and large clusters of dark purple fruits, make it easily identifiable as a beautiful yard accent.
At full height, this beautiful bush can reach between six and 10 feet tall. It will thrive in USDA Hardiness Zones 3 to 9.
Find live plants for sale in #3 containers from Nature Hills Nursery.
Alternatively, you can purchase ‘Adams’ and ‘Johns’ planted together in a two-gallon container from Fast Growing Trees.
An import from Europe, Black Beauty® aka S. nigra ‘Gerda,’ has very dark leaves, pinkish blooms, and a unique lemon scent.
It is best suited for growing in Zones 4 to 7 and prefers moist or even wet growing conditions.
A smaller elderberry variety, this plant will grow to no more than six feet tall at maturity, but responds well to pruning.
Like other elderberries, it produces luscious fruits that have become popular for making delicious wines. Buy two to ensure proper pollination.
You can find this plant for sale as a potted shrub from Nature Hills Nursery.
Black Lace® aka S. nigra ‘Eva’ has dark leaves that appear lacy throughout the growing season. When the flowers bloom, you’ll be delighted to find that they are pink!
This plant also produces the same versatile berries as other more common varietals.
Many gardeners find that the plant’s need for moisture makes it a perfect rain garden addition.
A bit smaller than other bushes, these plants will grow to just eight feet tall at full height. It’s easy to prune, so feel free to trim it to the height that works best with your landscape design plans.
Black Lace® thrives in Zones 4 to 7. It is available in #1 and #2 containers from Nature Hills Nursery.
This plant is native to the western United States, Mexico, and the West Coast.
With large, powdery-blue berries, it can sometimes be confused for a form of blueberry. The fruits on this stunning bush are known for having a rich flavor.
This variety differs from others in that it grows best from seed.
It thrives in warmer regions, and therefore is best suited for Zones 3 through 10. At maturity, it can reach a height of 10 to 30 feet, with a spread of 18 feet under ideal growing conditions.
Seeds for this unique plant are available from Amazon.
S. nigra Instant Karma® features variegated green and white foliage and dark purple fruits, making it a beautiful yard accent.
Owners of the plant are usually stunned by how birds and pollinators are attracted to the large, showy white flowers. Butterflies are almost always nearby!
Plant this variety with Black Lace® or Black Beauty® for pollination.
You can expect this variety to reach a mature height of six to eight feet.
Find plants in quart-size containers available from Home Depot.
Lemony Lace®, S. racemosa ‘SMNSRD4,’ is a very hardy and showy plant that has feathery, light-colored leaves, and produces red fruits in the fall, after the white flower bunches have died away.
Amazingly deer-, cold-, and wind-resistant, it does well in full sun and is a prized plant in the northern United States. It’s versatile enough, however, to thrive in partial shade in southern states as well.
A smaller cultivar, this type typically attains a height and spread of three to five feet at maturity.
Plant in Zones 3 to 7 and enjoy this adaptable plant with its uniquely beautiful chartreuse color.
Please note that some experts caution against eating the berries from S. racemosa cultivars, specifically those with red berries.
Lemony Lace® is available from Nature Hills Nursery in #3 containers.
Another S. canadensis cultivar, ‘York’ is reported to have the largest berries and the highest fruit yield.
This resilient breed is also cold tolerant, making it a perfect choice for Zones 3 to 9. Many growers use it as a natural fencing solution, since bushes can grow up to 12 feet tall.
Fall brings about a beautiful color change in this plant. Foliage becomes bright red before dropping off for the winter.
‘York’ is available as one- to two-feet bare roots or shrubs in #3 containers from Nature Hills Nursery.
Elderberry Collection, 2 Bare Root Plants
Though most varieties of elderberry are self-fruiting, you can encourage higher yields by planting another cultivar of the same species nearby.
‘York’ and ‘Adams’ make excellent companions, and you can purchase bare root plants paired conveniently in the Elderberry Collection that is available from Burpee.
With so many options to choose from, it may be difficult to decide on a favorite. Luckily, most elderberries grow well together, giving you the choice to try multiple types for a rainbow of florals.
If it is your first time growing, you will likely do well with an established bush in a pot.
Remember that every breed thrives in moisture and works well in butterfly ecosystems. You can’t go wrong with the benefits that these varieties provide!
]]>PEOPLE have used herbs for their culinary and healing properties for centuries. Today, herbs remain as popular as ever. Cooks love the unique flavors that herbs lend to all kinds of food and drink. Herbalists treasure the healing qualities of certain flowers, leaves and roots. Herbal crafters preserve the beauty and fragrance of flowers and leaves in potpourri, wreaths, sachets and dried arrangements. And gardeners value herbs for all their excellent qualities, including their vigor, low maintenance and natural resistance to pests.
When most of us think of herbs, we picture the common kitchen seasonings, such as basil, rosemary, sage and thyme. Yet, an herb is any plant that is considered useful. For instance, the leaves, roots, seeds, stems or flowers of an herb might be important as a source of flavoring, medicine, fragrance, dye or some other product. It's not all about function. Some gardeners grow herbs simply because they are beautiful.
Herbs are very easy to grow with a little sunshine, soil that drains well, some watering, and a little fertilizer or compost. Herbs can be grown in pots; however, the plants always prefer to be in the ground where they can spread out. Some plants grow quite large (4-6 feet), and when placed in pots they can become stunted and can get stressed, which causes them to be very unhappy.
Click here to shop for Herb Plants and to read more about growing them
The main requirement for growing Herbs is growing them in the proper location. Most prefer full sun as long as regular summer temperatures don't rise above 90 degrees. If you have very warm summers, then consider planting in and area that gets morning sun and afternoon shade in the summertime, or a place that receives filtered light (such as under a tree that allows some light to pass through). Check the area several times during the day to make sure that there are at least four hours of sun. (e.g., 8 to 12, 12 to 4, or from 9 to 11 and 2 to 4)
For planting Herbs, you need approximately 1 to 4 feet in diameter for each plant, depending on the plant. Here are some general guidelines for plant sizes:
Next, you need to prepare the soil. Digging with a large garden fork loosens soil that has become compacted over the years. This allows water to drain and creates space for plant roots to reach down into the soil. This is the most important step--shortcuts here are disastrous for your plants. Adding compost to your soil, about an inch or so on top and then mixing it into the soil, helps prevent drainage problems and adds fertilizer to the garden.
The final step is to plant healthy, strong plants and water them when they become dry. Most Herbs like to be watered as soon as the soil located a couple of inches below the surface is dry to the touch. Since temperatures and humidity cause drying times to vary every week, you must check the soil often. Do not over-water. More water is not better and can lead to diseases or just poor growing conditions for your Herbs, which will result in reduced growth.
For harvesting, you simply cut off about 1/3 of the branches when the plant reaches at least 6-8" tall. By cutting close to a leaf intersection, your plants will regrow very quickly. Some plants, such as parsley, grow new leaves from their center. In this case the oldest branches need to be completely removed, leaving the new tiny branches growing from the center. This becomes clearer as you watch your plants grow and mature.
Herbs are much easier to grow than many houseplants. All you need is a sunny, warm place and containers large enough for your plants to grow. Sunny decks, patios, and other such areas are great for container gardening. By growing Herbs in containers, you save yourself the difficulty of digging that starting a garden plot requires.
However, if you are lucky enough to have a great location for a garden, and you like to work outdoors, remember that your plants always prefer to be in the ground. Some plants grow quite large and do much better in the ground for that reason alone. Container gardening requires diligent watering and regular feeding, but it can be easy and fun.
The Main Things You Will Need Are:
For planting Herbs, you need to allow for at least 8" in diameter for each plant. Later you may want to transplant to larger pots because the Herbs will outgrow their pots over time. (Basils can grow to over 2 1/2 feet high.)
First, prepare your container by filling it with good potting soil and add fertilizer according to the directions on the package for herbs or for most vegetables. Moisten the potting soil by mixing in water until the soil feels damp all the way through. Place the pot on a saucer, if you need to protect your deck or table, and you are ready to plant.
Next, dig holes large enough for each plant. Release the plants from their starter containers by turning them upside down, tapping the bottom, and gently pulling on the base of the stems until the plant comes out of the container. Place the plant in the hole and gently press soil around the edges to fill. Water the plant immediately after planting; afterward, water them only when the soil gets dry to the touch. Over-watering can be just as bad for Herbs as under-watering.
Plants should get at least four hours of sunshine per day (certain plants appreciate a bit of shade in the hot summer months during the afternoon hours). They can grow with less sunshine, but they will not grow as well. For harvesting, you simply cut off about 1/3 of the branches when the plant reaches at least 6-8" tall. By cutting close to a leaf intersection your plants will regrow very quickly.
Most herbs thrive in typical garden soil, as long as it has good drainage. However, some herbs, such as rosemary, lavender and bay, are woody plants native to the Mediterranean. These herbs prefer gritty, sharply drained soil. Good drainage is crucial because the roots of Mediterranean natives are likely to rot in moist soil. If your garden soil is heavy, grow these herbs in raised beds or planters.
Most herbs thrive in full sun (six or more hours of direct sunlight per day). If you have a garden that receives less sun, choose herbs that don't need as much. Good choices include:
Like other plants, herbs can become stressed in windy or exposed sites. Growing herbs in beds near the house or next to other buildings or walls provides a warm, sheltering microclimate and increases a gardener's chances of success with tender perennials like rosemary, which is hardy only to Zone 8. Even if you grow rosemary in containers and bring it indoors for the winter, it's still a good idea to set it out in a sunny, sheltered area.
Some herbs are easy to start from seed, but others take a long time to germinate. Buy slow-growers at a nursery or divide existing plants. In some cases, you can grow new plants from cuttings.
From seed: Before sowing any herb, whether in seed-starting trays or directly in the garden, read the seed packet, which will give you important information. Herbs that are easy to grow from seed include:
From division: Perennial herbs can be divided easily. Use a garden fork to dig up the plant's root system and either pull the roots apart by hand (as with chives), or cut the root mass into several pieces and replant them elsewhere in the garden. You can also put small divisions in pots to grow indoors during the winter. If the divisions are to be used outdoors, the best time to divide is fall, when they are winding down for the year. When divided and replanted in autumn, plants get established faster.
Perennial herbs that respond well to division include:
From cuttings: Stem cuttings of suitable herbs should be taken in spring or summer, when plants are healthy and growing vigorously. Rosemary and tarragon tend to root better in the fall, so use them for cuttings at that time and grow them indoors over the winter. Good choices for cuttings:
Some herbs—such as basil, mint and sage—will form roots in a glass of water.
By growing herbs in pots and planters, you can grow tender perennials, such as rosemary and flowering sages year-round. Just bring them indoors in the fall. In addition, container gardening is a good option for gardeners who have limited space or soil that doesn't drain well.
Start with good-quality potting soil, which ensures good drainage. Do not use ordinary garden soil, which does not drain well when used in a container. As with other plants in containers, herbs require regular watering and fertilization throughout the growing season. Mediterranean native, such as rosemary, can tolerate fairly dry soil between watering. Other herbs with broader leaves need more attention to watering.
During the outdoor growing season, use liquid fertilizer at the rate recommended on the package. If you bring plants inside for the winter, they require much less fertilization; once or twice a month is sufficient.
Herbs that can live for several years in pots include:
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If you want to look like you’ve taken your garden to the next level of design, ornamental alliums are the answer. Planting a few bulbs in the fall will create a mini-sculpture garden in the spring that will not only last while the flowers are fresh, but continue into summer as the flowers dry in place. The single globes float above the surrounding garden and are made up of tiny, individual flowers on thin, hollow stems.
They’re easy, very hardy, and with basal (ground level) foliage that is rapidly covered by other growing perennials, you won’t face the “what to do with yellowing leaves” issue that accompanies most other bulb plantings.
You can find ornamental allium in many different shades of purple, pink, red, blue and white, and in sizes that range from “wow!” to “ahh…how sweet!” Used to accent developing foliage of later bloomers, or provide the finishing architectural touch to a bed of spring favorites, allium will give your garden the professional touch you’re striving for.
ONIONS, shallots and garlic are members of the allium family that belong in the vegetable garden. But there are many ornamental alliums that deserve a hearty welcome in your perennial gardens.
Alliums are plants of exquisite beauty in both flower and leaf, with tough constitutions. These easy-to-grow bulbs come in a broad palette of colors, heights, bloom times and flower forms. They make excellent cut flowers for fresh or dried bouquets. Even crowded gardens can accommodate a few alliums because they don't take up much space. What's more, alliums are relatively resistant to deer, voles, chipmunks, and rabbits
There are more than 700 different types of alliums in the world. It wasn't until the late 1800s that this vast group of plants started to intrigue plant lovers. Russian botanists began collecting some of the spectacular alliums from Central Asia and introducing them to avid horticulturists through the Imperial Botanical Garden in St. Petersburg. Of course, it didn't take long for the consummate plant hunters, the British, to get wind of this "new" family of garden-worthy plants. Their expeditions yielded many more interesting alliums varieties.
Ornamental alliums are hardy to zone 4 and they have very undemanding cultural requirements. They will grow in most any soil, as long as it is well-drained. Alliums adore sunlight and will perform best when they can bask in it all day long. Since most of them multiply naturally, they can be left untouched in the same area for years.
Alliums are drought-tolerant plants that actually prefer to be grown on the dry side. There are no serious diseases or insect pests that bother them. And you won't ever have to worry about rodents or deer, since they seem to have no appreciation for the taste of onions — ornamental or otherwise.
Just remember, there's only one time of year you can plant alliums: in the fall. Daffodils, tulips and crocuses are easy to find at most garden centers, but alliums are not as readily available. To make sure you have the bulbs in hand when it's time to plant, the best thing to do is order them by mail. That way, they'll show up at your door at proper planting time, and there's no chance you'll have to live another year without these beautiful, long-lasting, bee-friendly flowers in your garden. Some ornamental alliums grow more like chives and what you plant is a clump of roots rather than bulbs. This type of allium is usually sold as a potted plant, and may be more available in spring than fall.
There are dozens of varieties in cultivation; here are some of the best.
Purple Sensation: the 2″ to 4″ diameter purple globes bloom in early June, right after the late tulips. Purple Sensation's sturdy stems rise 24″ to 30″ high, so the flowers appear to float above the foliage of newly emerging perennials./p>
Globemaster and Gladiator: The tallest and most architectural alliums have huge, globe-shaped flowerheads on 3- to 4-foot stems. Bloom time is early to mid-June. A group of deep-purple Globemaster or Gladiator alliums is a real eye-catcher, especially when planted with white or pink peonies, delphiniums or tall bearded iris. The white-flowering Mount Everest is a bit shorter and looks sharp in front of shrubs with deep-green or burgundy foliage or rising out of a groundcover of periwinkle (Vinca minor).
Corkscrew allium: Drought-tolerant corkscrew allium (Allium senescens ssp. montanum var. glaucum) makes a good edging plant in the dry soil at the top of my stone retaining wall. Its blue-green leaves twist like loose corkscrews. Bloom time is late summer.
Ozawa allium (Allium thunbergii 'Ozawa'): A tidy, clump-forming plant that grows 18″ to 20″ high. Among the last of the perennials to bloom, its flowers often don't open until late September or October. Bees love it. Another late-bloomer that flowers in autumn. Its pink flowers pair well with coreopsis, gaillardia, solidago and other fall flowers.
Schubert allium (Allium schubertii): Quite dramatic, though only 8″ tall . Its foot-wide umbels look like an exploding pink fireworks display. Sure to elicit comments from garden visitors. Seed heads add interest for a month or more after blooms fade.
Drumstick allium (Allium sphaerocephalon): Blooms in early July, a couple weeks after Purple Sensation. Not as erect and orderly as Purple Sensation, but in the right place (where casual is OK), the two-toned, burgundy-green heads are fantastic. Great with ornamental grasses.
Yellow allium (Allium flavum): A midsummer-blooming favorite that is well-suited to rock gardens. Over a 10-day period, the cluster of florets slowly emerges and becomes an exuberant display of color. Related species available in yellow, pink and white, 12″ to 24″ high.
Don’t make the mistake of digging a hole into hard, unforgiving soil, plopping in the bulb and then covering with rich, amended soil. Bulb roots go down – they need at least two inches of good soil beneath them.
Light: Allium thrive in full sun, but can tolerate part-shade conditions.
Soil: A well-drained soil is the most important condition for allium as bulbs may rot if left in wet soil. The average soil of most garden beds kept moist but not wet is generally fine.
Spacing: Space depending on the effect you wish to create – for single intensive plantings, space approximately 8-12” apart. For accents with larger varieties, space up to 2’ apart. While some species spread vigorously through seeds or bulbils, many varieties do not spread at all.
Planting: Plant bulbs in fall for a spring bloom. Plant dormant allium bulbs in the fall according to your growing zone. Plant them at a depth of 2-3 times their diameter (4-6”) in a well-drained sunny or partly-shaded site.
Allium is remarkably resilient in a dormant state and can wait to be planted, but needs to be in the ground a few weeks before the ground freezes in order to put down roots. If holding for any length of time, keep cool and dry in a dark location.
Growth Habit: Think: garden lollipop. In early spring, 2-3 flat, strappy leaves will emerge from the soil and remain close to the ground. By late spring, a single hollow flower stalk (scape) will emerge, with a papery tip. The spherical cluster of flowers will emerge when the scape is fully erect, though the foliage may already have started to yellow and die back.
Staking: Allium are remarkably strong for their height, but if you live in an area with high winds, it is wise to stake individual flowers.
Watering: Evenly-moist soil is preferred during the growing season. During the dormant season, bulbs can rot if too much moisture is in the soil.
Fertilizing: A small handful of bone meal placed in the soil at planting time is a good idea for root development. After a season in your garden, mulch with compost or well-rotted manure each year for added trace nutrients and improved soil.
Mulching: Allium doesn’t require mulching, but mulching for moisture retention, nutrients and aesthetics is perfectly okay.
Trimming & Pruning: You can remove the flower clusters either when fresh or dry, but it is crucial to leave the foliage intact, allowing it to yellow and die back naturally. Many gardeners leave the flower heads in place through the autumn as they have an almost architectural appearance.
If you’ve already tidied up the foliage after die back and cut off the flower scapes, there is no need to do anything more than wait for spring!
Dividing & Transplanting: Allium do not need to be dug and divided.
Pests & Disease: Insect pests are few and far between when it comes to the genus allium. Moles can dig tunnels under the roots, creating air gaps that will dry out and damage the bulb. Mice, voles and gophers will eat allium if there aren’t tulips and crocus to keep them busy.
Additional Concerns: Some species seed prolifically or create tiny bulbils in the flower head that become tiny plants. It is a good idea to check into the specific variety you are buying to make sure that this isn’t an issue.
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Greet Guests with Flowers. Flowers always make a home seem more welcoming. Plant Rambling Vines. Dress Up Your Driveway. Plant No-Fuss Lilies. Deer-Proof Your Garden. Add Height with Planters and Baskets. Grow Blooming Shrubs. Hide Outdoor Structures.
Your home may be your castle, but rather than surround it with a moat, use any of these wonderful yard landscaping ideas to add warmth, color, and texture to the place you love to live. From growing blooming shrubs, to planting annuals and perennials, to deer-proofing your garden, there are many beautiful and wonderful ways to make your home inviting and appealing. Some of our best landscaping ideas include adding height with planters and baskets, and creating spaces where outdoor party guests can sit, relax, and enjoy drinks and company.
Each of these yard landscaping ideas is both attractive and functional, so let them stir your imagination. Then, use our best landscaping ideas to help you create the stunning outdoor living spaces you know you will cherish.
Before even getting to the sowing stage there are a few tips you should bear in mind. You will need to get some shallow planting trays with a lot of holes in them; this allows for water to drain quickly from the planting medium when your seedlings are very young and fragile. Please see below for what I use – I’ve had great success growing both succulents and cacti in these.
Once your seeds have arrived, and you are ready to plant it is important that your sand is free draining and pesticide free. Please bear in mind that much of the sand sold commercially is sprayed with both fungicides and herbicides to make it “hassle free” for the consumer. You will need to find some horticultural sand or even kitty litter without perfume for this. I like to use builder’s sand that you can find at your local DIY store – it is meant for mixing into cement, but it works perfectly for this. The little pieces of rock allow for small air pockets to form and makes sure that the roots develop entirely. The best tip I ever got taught when it comes to growing succulents from seed was that you need to make sure that your sand is wet before sowing. Succulent seeds are very tiny and will easily float with water to one corner of your tray before they have roots. If your medium is wet, they will stick to the sand and stay put until they have roots.
Make sure that you scatter the seed with some space between them and tap the tray gently against a flat surface. By tapping it, you are making sure that any seed that does not touch the sand will fall into place. Cover them with either a shower cap or a humidity dome until they start sprouting – this is important as most seed won’t germinate unless there’s a certain amount of humidity in the air.
Depending on the seeds the succulents will take anywhere from a few days to a couple of weeks to germinate. As you can see they are equally as small as the seeds were and will require stable water conditions for about a week before you can start letting the medium dry out a bit more. Remember to remove your humidity dome or shower cap as soon as you see them sprout. Too much moisture will make them rot.
To water them carefully flood the tray by pouring water into the corners of it. Make sure the water drains through and that you do not let them stand in water by keeping the tray in a container or plate. The sand should be soaking wet, but the plants should never sit in water. I move my trays into the sink or into the garden for watering so that the extra water can escape quickly. Let the sand dry fully before watering again. By doing this, you mimic what those plants would experience in the desert. Drought and flood – once it rains. After a few weeks, they will start looking like the little plants in the picture below. Even though you might be tempted to move them to another container since they are forming sturdy looking plants you should stay patient and let them grow.
If you managed to keep them alive for a total of about three months, you should be a proud parent of a whole little cluster of succulents. Bear in mind these are desert plants. They will not grow as quickly as other plants that you might be used to. Patience is the key.
As you can see you can grow as many as you wish at the same time. If you are going to garden events or plant swaps, they are a beautiful thing to grow. People will trade you any plants for these since many believe they are hard or impossible to grow from seed, just be sure to start them at least three months before you want to give them away. These succulents I grew specifically for this post, and they took exactly three months to reach sizes ranging from 1 – 2.5 cm (1/3 – 1 inch). It might seem unbearably slow, but there is a reason. Where these plants usually grow there is no steady supply of water and in most cases not many nutrients either, combined with harsh weather. They had to adapt and make the best of their growing conditions. They adapted by developing thick leaves that can endure the harsh climate and a very slow but steady growing speed. On a positive note, these don’t need to be re-potted that often and once you got an adult plant you can have it for decades – granted that you take care of it.
Compiled from: http://thegreedyvegan.com/how-to-grow-succulents-from-seed/